The Island of Hawaii January 31 - February 7 , 2019

January 31, 2019

 

View from Hale Kona Kai #408

We were out of our house at 3 am to catch our 6 am flight from Oakland to Seattle.  On the positive side, there was no traffic and getting to Oakland was a breeze.  The flight to Seattle took 2 hours, we had time to grab breakfast and board our 9:30 flight to Kona-Kailua.  After a long bumpy flight we landed about 3:30 Kona time, 5:30 by our body clocks, a long day of flying!  Alaska Airlines canceled our original direct flight a few months ago and rescheduled us through Seattle.

Sunset January 31

When we got to Kona we decided to find something to eat and stop at Safeway before finding our Condo.  Arriving in Kona around 4:30 figuring out a place to park was a challenge.  Once parked we wandered the streets and found The Kona Canoe Club whose sign read:  FISH, BURGERS AND GROG.  it looked inviting, had waterfront seating and we were exhausted and starving so we enjoyed excellent spearfish sandwiches for lunch and dinner.  We stopped by Safeway for provisions for the morning and headed to our home for the next 5 nights, Hale Kona Kai #408. 

February 1

Mark was out early on his photo walk about, while I lazed to the roaring sounds of the ocean from our condo. After watching the sun come up behind Mauna Loa, we set out for a stroll around the neighborhood.  

Honl's Beach, Kailua- Kona

We found this beach minutes from our condo and continued up Ali’i drive.

After breakfast we drove south on Ali’i Drive and left the congestion of Kona.  

Napo'opo'o Beach Park looking towards Kealakekua Bay

Our first stop was Napo'opo'o Beach, directly across Kealakekua Bay from Captain Cook Monument, where standing on the lava I could look down and see the bright yellow and black fish in the water.   20 years prior we snorkeled out in this bay with Rob and Kaci on a day trip

Exterior of St. Benedict's Catholic Church

On the long winding drive back up the hill to the highway we stopped at the Painted Church, St. Benedict's Catholic Church, where Father John Velge created frescos on the walls and ceiling between 1899 and 1904.

Inside the Painted Church

Looking from chapel door across cemetery and out to the west

Almost to the highway we headed west again to Pu'uhonua o Honaunau or Place of Refuge.  

Hale o Keawe
Royal mausoleum housing bones  of ancients.
Wooden Images represent Hawaiian Gods

Here was a temple where human sacrifices were made and Captain Cook was worshipped as the returning god Lono.  It was also here that the first Christian ceremony was held in Hawai'i which may have contributed to the death of Captain Cook.

Structure on Royal Grounds

 

Keone'ele Cove

Driving the Long windy road down the mountain to the last fishing village on the island, Miloli.  We were surprised as we got closer to see that the houses were built right on top of the lava!  Down near Miloli beach we finally came upon the fishing boats. 

On the way back to town we stopped at a fruit stand and picked up some fresh local fruit, bananas, a tangelos and an avocado.

We stopped for an early supper at Sam Choi’s Kai Lanai.  Up above Kona the open air restaurant had a panoramic ocean view.  Mark had his usual, fish tacos which were ok and I enjoyed a delicious calamari salad. 

February 2

This morning we awoke to storm clouds along with a double rainbow.

We set off for the Northern part of the Island which is like driving through a desert, passing fields of lava with an ocassional grouping of Palm trees where fresh water can be found.  

We followed Queen Ka’ahumanu Hwy past Kapalua on to the Akani Pale Highway, following the coastline, stoping at Lapakahi State Historical Park, we found ourselves  almost alone here.  

We explored a  trail that ran through the remains of an ancient Hawaiian Village. 

Continuing south on the island the weather changed drastically as soon as we rounded the southern tip and the rain began and became heavier the further up the road we traveled.  

We continued through the bohemian artist village of Hawi and to the end of the road at the Pololu Valley Overlook.  The trail down to the beach here was very steep and muddy, we elected to pass.

On the way back to Hawi we stopped at Kapa’au Beach.

Planning to arrive in Wailea for a late lunch at Merriman’s in Waimea where we had fond memories of an unforgettable meal with Rob and Kaci 20 years ago, we drove back through Parker Ranch   As we turned onto Hwy 19 toward Waimea we encounter the first traffic of the day.  

A slowdown that took us 30 minutes to travel 1.2 miles.  We pulled into Merriman’s at 1:30, only to find they were booked for the rest of lunch.  Argh!  This meant we had to jump back on the Hwy in all the traffic.  I found a place on yelp called The Fish and the Pig that sounded good,  on the way we found the source of the traffic, A Cherry Blossom Festival taking place at a church. 

land on Kohala Mountain Road with it’s spectacular views.

Lunch was delicious, ribs and chicken providing dinner for tomorrow night.

We continued our drive back in Kailua-Kona along Mamalahoa Hwy arriving at our Condo just as the sky opened up with heavy rain.

February  3

Today we  drove up to Holuakoa Gardens and Cafe and explore the town of Holualoa.  

We arrived just as they were opening for bunch and were not disappointed.  

The surroundings were beautiful, lots of plants and koi ponds.  It felt like old Hawaii. 

I had eggs Benedict, the best I’ve ever had and Mark had a vegetable frittata that was good, but not as good as the eggs Benedict.  I’d love to try it for dinner if we return, but reservations seem a good idea.

One thing about an island is you have a view from most places.  

Most of the galleries in Holualoa were closed so we just strolled around.

Driving to highway 190 we passed by old coffee farms.  We drove up Makaha Road to the local cloud forest at 5,000 feet.  It was lush and in the clouds!  We couldn’t find parking so we headed down the mountain.  On the way down the transmission on the Nissan Sentra started acting up.  We decided to take it back to the airport and upgrade to a V6 before going over to Volcano.  A good lesson, we were much more comfortable in the Hyundai small suv we received. 

With our new comfy car we drove to Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park.  We first stopped at the main entrance, a long hot walk across lava to the shoreline and decided to drive down near the small boat harbor where the walk was along a shorter path.  Ancient people built a wall they would attach a net to to trap the fish. 

Walking the pathway to the beach a little girl offered to show us where the turtles were, unfortunately the tide was coming in and the turtles had left.

February 4, 2019

Today we drove back to the north to the resort area.  We drove into the Mauna Kea Resort, but couldn’t get out of the car.  

From there we went to the State Beach next door, Kamuela Beach where we could walk right on the beach at Mauna Kea.  The hotel wing nearest the beach was being renovated.

We drove onto the grounds of the Mauna Lani and walked around the shopping village.  Driving down to the hotel we found it closed and continued onto the Fairmont Orchid where we found a coastal access road and another gorgeous beach.  

Our final resort was the Four Seasons where we able to park the car and walk around the grounds.

After a short rest back at the condo we walked down to the pier area of Kona and through the shops stopping at the Canoe house for a cold drink.

While out earlier in the day we went by U

February 5, 2019

Savored the final morning in Kona enjoying the roar of the ocean on our balcony as I watched the sunrise.

We’ve throughly enjoyed our 6 days at Hale Kona Kai # 408.  Lived leaving our slider open and listening to the ocean all night.  Condo was well equipped.  Perfect place to stay on this side of the island.

Next visit:  411 and 412  November or December

On to our next adventure!

We left Kona on Highway 19, the Queen Ka’ahumani Highway about midway to the Saddle Road Maui was clear as a bell in the distance.  

We followed the Saddle Road from grassy hills to lava filled hills, stopping about midway at Pu’u Hululhulo Cinder Cone trail to walk on the lava flow. 

Across the highway, we followed the road 9 miles up Mauna Kai to the Visitor Center, opting not to continue to the top in the rental car.  

Once to Hilo we stopped at the Canoe House for lunch and walked through the farmers market where I was able to buy some more apple bananas.  

After stopping at Safeway to pick up food for the next couple of days we continued up the Highway to our rental cottage in the town of Volcano,  Ohia Paniolo Cottage which we rented from Volcano Vacations Hawaii for $135 a night with no cleaning fee. 

The house was fully stocked with everything we needed for breakfast including coffee, tea, creamer and even butter and a few cokes in the fridge.  

The temperatures up near the volcano were quite a bit cooler and we used the fireplace to help warm the house up.

February 6, 2019

After using the Hawaiian Cinnamon Apple Bread we found under the cake dome when we arrived to make delicious French Toast, we headed into Hawaiian Volcanoes National Park.  Arriving before 9:00 the visitor center wasn’t yet open so we continued on to the trail which overlooks the caldera. 

Many of the trails and roads around the park were closed due to the recent activity.  

Last spring when the volcano erupted the caldera fell from some where around 650 feet to 1650 ft.

After visiting the visitor center to find out where we could see the nearest new land formed during the eruption of Pu’uhonua fissure 8 we drove for an hour and a half to the eastern part of the island passing lush landscape and beautiful beaches finally arriving at Isacc Hale Park, the location where the lava entered the ocean and stopped flowing forming 13.7 miles of new land.  

Many of the sights mentioned in the guide book in this area are no longer accessible or visible.

On the return drive we stopped in the town of Pahoa, which the guide book described as a place where “guerilla gardeners, deadlock enthusiasts, FBI fugatives and the never bathe crowd coexist”.  Driving into the town we passed fissures steaming alongside the road, it was a near miss for the lava flow in 2014. 

February 7, 2019

A sad morning as we prepared to leave our little piece of paradise we set out for a breakfast spot in Hilo, not realizing what a chore that would be.  I had read about Paul’s Place and didn’t believe it could only have 3 tables, which it did.  It looked like a choice spot, but was booked until 11:00, too late for us.  

We wandered on and found Conscious Culture Café and Big Island Kombucha, the kind of place you would expect to find around Sebastopol.  Breakfast was fine and the coffee was really good.

We wandered around Hilo a bit more and then headed back over Saddle Road to the airport and our flight to San Diego.